This is the photo tutorial for making a zippered lining for the Lucky Wristlet.

The tutorial shows, step-by-step how to make a zippered lining for the Lucky Wristlet.  Let me know if something isn't clear.  I will be happy to help you!

Detailed instructions (text is above its corresponding photo)

1.  You'll need a crocheted Lucky Wristlet using my free PDF crochet pattern, fabric for the lining, and a zipper that is about 3 inches longer (or more) than your wristlet.

CUT FABRIC PIECES

2.  To figure out the size of the fabric pieces you need to cut, you need to measure your wristlet.  Measure the width of the inside opening.  In this photo, my interior wristlet width is 7.5"


3. Measure the inside height from the middle of the bottom of the wristlet to to row where you will sew in the lining.  In this photo, my interior wristlet height is 4".

4. NOTE:  If you modified your wristlet to have depth by adding bottom rows, you will still measure your wristlet as described.  The change you will make to accommodate the depth is to square off the bottom corners to remove the extra fabric at each side.  I'll remind you below.

5. Cut fabric:
- - 2 pieces that are [width + 1"] by [height + 1"].  My pieces are 8.5" by 5".
- - 1 piece that is 5.25" by 4.5" to make a credit-card-sized pocket


MAKE POCKET

6. Place the pocket fabric face down on your ironing board.  The 5.25" edges are the top and bottom.  The 4.5" edges are the right and left sides. Fold up 1/2" from the bottom edge, right sides together.  Iron along the fold.


7. Fold the top edge down so that the folded bottom edge is about 1/4" longer than the top edge.  Pin the sides.


8. Sew a 1/2" seam on the right and left sides starting from the fold and going toward the open edge.


9. Trim off the corners of the seam allowance.  This will reduce bulk when you turn this inside-out.


10. Turn the pocket inside-out.  Use a crochet hook or knitting needle to push out the corners.  Iron flat.  This is the front side.


11. This is the back side.  The opening is the bottom edge of the pocket.


12. Sew across the top of the pocket 1/4" below the top edge.


13. Hide the thread ends on the inside of the pocket. See steps 19-22 for details about hiding threads..  Set aside the pocket for later.


MAKE LINING

14. Place one of the lining pieces face down on your ironing board.  The long edges are the top and bottom.  The short edges are the right and left sides. Fold down 1/2" from the top edge, wrong sides together.  Iron along the fold.


15. For edges this long which need ironing, I like to make the fold, pin the fold with long pins, then iron.  I let the fold cool before unpinning.


16. Repeat steps 13 and 14 with the other lining  piece.


17. Pin the pocket to one of the lining pieces.  Be sure that the lining piece fold is at the top and the stitching line of the pocket is at the top.  The bottom of the pocket should be about 1" above the bottom edge of the lining piece.


18. Sew a 1/4" seam along the right, left, and bottom edges.  Hide the threads on the back of the lining piece.  See steps 19-22 for details about hiding threads.


19. These are two thread ends.


20. Thread one onto a sewing needle.  Pull the thread to the back of the lining piece.  Do this for the other corner thread, too.


21. Tie the threads together on the back side to secure them.


22. Here is the neat front view once the threads are pulled to the back.


23. Lay the the lining pieces on top of each other right-sides-together.  Pin the sides together.


24. Be sure the two ironing lines at the tops of the pieces line up before you pin the sides.


25. Sew a 1/2" seam on the right and left sides starting from the fold and going toward the open edge.


26. Iron the seam allowance open.


27. Trim the corners off the seam allowance at the top.  This will reduce bulk when we fold down the top edge.


28. Fold down the top edge along the ironing lines with the side seams still open (to reduce bulk).  Iron the top edge again.


29. Here's a peek inside the lining at this stage.


30. Sew around the top of the lining 1/4" from the top.  Start in a side seam, sew all the way around, ...


31. ... and end at the same point in the side seam.


32. Hide your threads.  See steps 19-22 for details about hiding threads.


33. Look how neat that is!


34. Here's another peek at the inside of the lining


35. Turn the lining inside out.


36. Measure 1/2" from the side seam ...


37. ... and place one side of the open zipper so the teeth start right at the 1/2" mark.  The zipper teeth should be right along your stitching line (1/4" from the top).


38. Pin in one side of the open zipper.


39. Sew zipper in.  Start 1/2" from one edge to 1/2" before the next edge.  I use my regular zipper foot so that my stitching isn't too close to the zipper teeth.


40. Measure 1/2" from the side seam on the other side of the lining.  Pin in open zipper.


41.  Be sure you haven't twisted up your open zipper before you sew in the second side.  When you unzip the zipper that the should teeth point upwards.  When you zip the zipper, they should come down and meet in the middle of the bag opening.


42. Sew zipper in.  Start 1/2" from one edge to 1/2" before the next edge.


43. The zipper is now sewn in.


44. Turn the lining inside out.


45. Zip up the zipper.


46. Trim the end of your zipper so it's 2.5" longer than your bag.


47. Like this.


48. Now, very carefully, unzip the zipper so the zipper head is in that last 2.5 inches, but don't unzip completely because your zipper head will come right off the zipper and that would be bad.


49. Tuck the 2.5" end of the zipper into the inside of the lining.


50. Zip the zipper back up.


51. The zipper is done!  If you have a very loose zipper and you're afraid the zipper head will slip down when you have the wristlet open, you can sew a zipper stop across the teeth at the edge of the bag.  See the section on "Adjusting Zipper Length" in this post at TECHknitting.


52. Flatten your lining and pin the bottom closed.  Sew a 1/2" seam across the bottom of the lining. The stitching you can see in this image is back side of the pocket.


53. Trim the right and left corners of the seam allowance at the bottom right and bottom left corners.


54. NOTE:  If you modified your wristlet to have depth by adding bottom rows, this is the point where you'll want to square off the bottom edge of your lining.  You can see what that entails in my Starling Handbag LiningTutorial steps 7, 8 and 9.  Once you fold over the edge in step 8, measure across the triangle perpendicular to the seam.  When you find the spot where the measurement matches the depth of your bag, that's where you'd stitch as shown in step 9.  Then trim off the excess fabric.

55. Put your finished lining into the crocheted wristlet.


56. With the zipper open, the zipper head should be on the side with no spike crochet stitch.


57. See?  There is no spike crochet stitch on the edge here.


SEW IN LINING

I have a very detailed tutorial for sewing in a lining for a Starling Handbag. Instead of making you go back and forth between these two tutorials, I'm going to borrow images from that tutorial to illustrate a couple things below. Don't be confused by the different crochet colors and lining.

58. Find the crochet row where you will be sewing the lining into the wristlet.  Pin in the lining.  For the wristlet, it should be the very top row.  Be sure the right and left edges of your wristlet are aligned with the left and right edges of your lining.

59. I marked the rows with red Vs to show you the stitches you'll be sewing the lining to.  You will only have rows that look like this if you crocheted back and forth (which you should have done).  You'll be using the one I'm pointing at, which is the top row of single crochet.


60. Cut a length of thread that is 3 times the width of your wristlet.


61. Thread your needle and knot the thread.  This knotting tutorial is awesome.

60. Come out of the top edge of your lining right at a spot that lines up with the right side of one of those Vs. This will hide the knot between the lining and your wristlet.


61. Here it is from the front.  See that the thread is right between two of the Vs.


62. Make a stitch behind the two vertical bars of the crochet stitch V.


63. You are just catching the two vertical bars.  Do not go through the crochet to the outside of the bag.  This part is not an exact science.  You don't have to get *all* of the yarn in the vertical bars ... just most of it.


64. Pull the needle and thread through.


65. Pull tight.


66. Put the needle into your lining so it's inside the top fold and comes out right at the edge of the next set of vertical bars. The needle is sandwiched inside the fold of the fabric.  I do not go through both pieces of folded fabric.  If you looked behind the needle, between the lining and the bag, you wouldn't see the back side of the needle because it's inside the folded fabric.  I've said the same thing four times here because I'm trying to be clear, because it is a tricky thing to explain in words.


67. Pull the thread through.


68. Make a stitch behind the next set of vertical bars.


69. Pull the thread through.


70.Pull your stitches tightly as you go.  When the stitches are pulled tightly, your lining will looked tucked into the crochet.


71. When you get back to where you started, go back through the first couple of stitches you made.  To make my final knot, I put my needle through some yarn between two Vs ...


72. ... wrap the end of the thread around the needle three times ...


73. ... and pull the thread through the wraps to create a knot.


74. I hide the knot by pulling my needle and thread behind the lining.


75. Take ahold of the thread end ...


76. ... and pull it to hide the knot behind the lining.  Trim the thread end.


77.  Here is the wristlet lining after being sewn in.


78.  And you're done!  Time to add the ribbon strap.